SITUATED IN Northwest Georgia on the border of Tennessee and North Carolina, Fannin County (GA) is the gateway to the Blue Ridge Mountains. The population in this rural area nearly doubles on weekends and holidays. This is because, as is characteristic of most mountain communities throughout the United States, Fannin County has a thriving weekend rental and second home population as well as many Type V-constructed cabins.
- ‘Tis the Season for Chimney Fires: Are You Ready?
- Extinguishing Chimney Fires
- The Roundtable: Chimney Fires
- Firefighter Operational Guide: Chimney Fires
Gas or wood fireplaces and tongue-and- groove cathedral ceilings are common in most of these cabins. When people pay good money to rent a cabin in the woods—with a fireplace-rest assured they’re going to make a fire. Whether it’s for ambiance or warmth, everyone loves a cozy fire in a cabin. As a result, in the winter, we see a significant increase in chimney fires. According to the Chimney Safety Institute of America, there are an average of 22,000 chimney-related fires annually in the United States.
Identifying a Chimney Fire
If caught in time, a true chimney fire stays in the chimney. Here are three signs:
- Loud crackling noises coming from the chimney.
- Flames or embers flying out of the chimney top.
- Thick smoke rising from the top of the chimney or leaking into the fireplace.
Even if you catch a chimney fire before it spreads to the rest of the home, you should have the chimney inspected before it’s used again. The fire’s high heat most likely damaged the chimney.
What Causes a Chimney Fire?
Traditional chimney fires are usually the result of ignited creosote deposits accumulated in the smoke chamber or chimney flue. These deposits typically form when you burn wet unseasoned, sappy, or green wood or by dampening down a flue, which causes the fire to simmer at a lower heat than the fire was designed for. Most chimney fires can be prevented by regularly having a certified professional clean and inspect the entire unit.
Chimney and Fireplace Construction
Chimneys are typically built using masonry or prefabricated metal, double-wall chimney stove pipes. Sometimes, a masonry chimney has a metal liner installed inside the pipe. The cabins in our area are primarily constructed with prefabricated fireplace boxes connected to prefabricated metal, double-wall stainless-steel chimneys.
The stainless-steel chimney pieces usually come in two-foot sections and have a twist-lock method that connects them. The chimney pieces are centered in a box made of 2 x 4 construction and are covered with plywood, oriented strand board, or a similar product. We usually call this the chase. On top of the sheeting, there is either rock, brick, or log-face covering that’s meant to simulate the look of a true, old-fashioned chimney (photos 1-3).
Breaking It Down
Here’s a breakdown of what we believe is happening. First, heat and sparks are escaping from the prefabricated chimney or flue due to the following:
- Age and rust.
- Improper installation.
- A clogged chimney.
- Shoddy construction methods.
Then, once the sparks escape:
- They get trapped in between the chimney and the wood framing.
- The 2 x 4s easily catch fire. (As soon as you have an active fire, the flow path is usually straight up.)
- When the fire hits the top of the chimney framing, it progresses into the home’s ceiling, walls, or attic.
We’ve also seen the wooden frame under the fireplace catch fire. If the house has a crawl space, it’s possible for the flow path to head toward the floor of the home in the room where the fireplace is located.
Exterior fireplaces on an open or covered deck are also popular these days. People tend to think these are safer for the home and feel comfortable leaving them unattended or making a giant blaze in the fireplace. Unfortunately, to enhance the ambiance of the outdoor porch, they’ll install an outdoor roof. The roofs are sometimes tied directly to the roof of the main house. When the chimney fire starts, it ascends to the outdoor roof and then travels directly to the main roof and enters the home (photos 4 and 5).
Recently, we had a fire in an outdoor fireplace. A renter was sitting in the hot tub enjoying the fire until he noticed that the rocks surrounding the fireplace chimney were glowing red hot. He realized the roof framing was smoking halfway between the fireplace and the home. Embers were falling from the ceiling.
How to Attack and Extinguish
Attacking and extinguishing chimney fires is not unlike most other fires.
However, the difficult part is gaining access to the actual fire. It’s best to enter through the chimney pipe’s siding. You can use a chain saw or, in the case of rock siding, you might need to use a sledgehammer first, followed by a chain saw or hand tools to breach the wood frame surrounding the pipe. As soon as an inspection hole in the chimney area is made, you can start putting water on the fire source.
You’ll also be able to gauge the fire’s magnitude. If the fire has expanded to the top of the chimney area, you’ll need to remove the chimney crown cap on the roof. Once you inspect the roof line and interior walls, you’ll be able to determine if it’s necessary to open ceilings, walls, and the roof. When it comes to interior walls, you’ll need to open the wall until you discover how far the fire has traveled. This could range anywhere from up to 10 (or more) feet away from the chimney. You won’t know until you rip off enough wall to see unburned wood (photos 6-9).
A New Approach
Through our comprehensive experience attacking and extinguishing chimney fires in the Georgia mountains, Fannin County Fire Rescue has designed several unique methods for best practices.
Battery-Powered Pole Saws vs. Chain Saws and Ladders
We used to open interior walls that are made of tongue and groove by climbing up a shaky roof ladder leaning against a wall and using a chain saw. Extension ladders are too bulky for most living rooms and attic ladders are too narrow to work on with a chain saw.
A while back, one of our newest members was less than thrilled about using a chain saw on a wobbly roof ladder. After the fire, he suggested we use a battery-powered pole saw, normally meant for tree pruning, instead of the ladder. It was a great idea.
After talking it through, we decided to try a battery-powered pole saw. If you use a pole saw, you get almost seven feet of reach with a 10-inch chain bar. The saw slices into tongue and groove like a hot knife through butter. The battery-powered pole saw also works well on exterior wood siding and log face.
Standing on the ground and reaching up is significantly safer than crawling up a roof ladder with a chain saw. We now carry several of these saws on key vehicles. Battery-powered pole saws are also good for many other tasks, including tree cleanup. The saws are easily serviceable (photos 10 and 11).
Learning Through Ladders
Another idea for equipment also came from using ladders in living rooms on chimneys. Another member suggested getting some multiposition folding ladders that are perfect for setting up against a wall next to a chimney or erecting as a step ladder to reach a ceiling area in the middle of a room. The model that we purchased also features an adjustable extension on one side at the butt end for setup on uneven surfaces. One dilemma is figuring out where to store the ladders on the rigs, but we’ve gotten creative and are squeezing them in.
The Heat of the Chase
Occasionally, we find that the fire has gathered an abundance of hot embers between the chimney chase and the cabin walls, and so we can’t expose the entire hot area. Removing the chimney is the only option. Generally, the chimney isn’t part of the home’s structural integrity. The method of choice when possible is to put a cinch strap high up on the chimney. The strap is then attached to a winch on one of our utility vehicles and pulled entirely off the home. If a truck with a winch is not accessible, a come-along secured to a tree works well. We’re always amazed by how much fire hides behind the wood chase.
Continuing to Think Outside the Box
Last year, we had a chimney fire in an extremely well built, true log home. The logs on this house were immense. We knew that the fire was behind the cinder block chimney and trapped in between the chimney and the logs. We attempted to pour water down from the top of the chimney, but it wasn’t reaching the hot area.
We decided to use chain saws and cut an approximately 3- x 3-foot hole in the side of the house where the fire was concealed. That went well, but the logs were so tight we couldn’t get them to budge. We brought in a spreading tool and, after picking away at a small purchase point, we were able to make enough headway to remove a log. Sure enough, there was fire behind it.
Later, I spoke to the home builder who repaired the damage. He said the repair was perplexing and decided to turn the fireplace into a two-sided unit. The back side became a fireplace for the outdoor deck.
Inspection Is Key to Every Home
Always remember that most chimney fires are preventable by maintaining routine inspection. Yearly inspection, at minimum, is essential. Professional chimney cleaning has even advanced in recent years. Your well-equipped chimney sweep now comes with a motorized brush and a fiber optic camera. The technician (we recommend a certified technician) looks for breaks in the chimney and deterioration of the entire system.
Chimney inspection recommendations should also be part of your department’s community outreach. At the beginning of every winter, social media or “safety days” should include reminders to have chimneys inspected. Rental companies can also reach out to homeowners to remind them to keep up with inspections.
ENDNOTES
- “Chimney Safety,” California Casualty, 2024, bit.ly/4bIclBc.
- “The Facts About Chimney Fires,” Chimney Safety Institute of America, bit.ly/3ysB3XU.
JIM EDELSTEIN is a 36-year law enforcement veteran and a Fannin County (GA) firefighter. He served in the NYPD-ESU as well as PBSO’s Emergency Field Force. He is a FL- and GA-certified instructor and a past FDIC H.O.T. instructor.
